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Editor

I am a British ex-pat (originally from Bristol) who now resides in Cusco, Peru with his Peruvian wife and young daughter. I have worked in the Peruvian travel industry for several years, and have a wealth of experience about Peru and South America. I have been writing about Peru and South America for several years, and have a particular interest in the history of the Incas and The Spanish Conquistadores. I hope this website is informative and useful to its readers and that the information provided helps you make that decision to travel to Peru, and discover one of South America's hidden gems!

Insiders travel tips to help you get the most out of your tour to Peru!

In and around Cusco, you find magic valleys, sacred mountains, Koricancha, Sacsayhuamán and close-by, of course, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Machu Picchu. You can experience glorious trekking on the Inca Trail, lush nature, tranquility, cleansing air, history and archaeology, alongside condors, guinea pigs, the celebration of Mother Earth and night life.

Cusco, or Cuzco, represents history, not only due to Machu Picchu, but also for its long and remarkable story and many myths. In fact, Cusco is considered to be the longest continuously inhabited city in South America, dating a continuous population since 1100 BC. We all know about Cusco being the capital of the Incas until the Spanish Conquest in 1532, but there were less famous cultures before that: the Killke, leaving Sacsayhuaman as a historical monument of their development, and before that the Huari’s, and so on in a fascinating time line of pre-Colombian cultures in Cusco, all unique and interesting to learn about.

Another great attraction to Cusco are the myths, and it is really fabulous to delve in the storytelling of how the god Pachacamac created men, and how he first mistreated and pitied his creation, fighting with the Sun and sometimes killing them. It is fascinating reading, as are the many myths of Manco Capac, the first Inca ruler. Only the great cultures give rise to great stories, myths and legends.

Hiking up mountains, meandering around ruins looking for traces of those myths and touring on cobbled streets are all wonderful parts of the Cusco experience, but they can leave some sore muscles. Here are five great spas in Cusco and the Sacred Valley that we are sure you will enjoy.

Luxury Tours to Peru
Speak to a Peru travel expert about your trip to Peru. For a wide selection of custom and set Luxury Tours to Peru contact Totally Latin America – the experts in luxury travel to Peru and South America .

Spa Mayu Wilka Rio Sagrado Hotel

The Mayu Wilka is a small, comfortable spa surrounded by nature, with a beautiful view of the Sacred Valley. It offers treatments with native plants and relaxing massages. The facilities include an indoor/outdoor Jacuzzi, steam room, sauna and Spanish showers.

Yacu Wasi Sol & Luna Hotel

Yacu Wasi is the spa of the Sol & Luna hotel, located in the Urubamba valley, and has the advantage of being surrounded by beautiful gardens and set in a beautiful space. It offers body treatments like exfoliations and wraps, as well as relaxing, anti-stress massages. There are also facial treatments.

Spa Tambo del Inka Hotel

The spa at the Tambo del Inka offers indoor and outdoor heated pools, hydro-massage pools, 12 treatment rooms, as well as rooms for VIPs and couples. Guests can choose from among a wide variety of massages, like those using Yucamani stones, and facial therapies using ingredients like cacao, mud, quinoa and 24-karat gold.

Unno Spa Aranwa Hotel

This spa is one of the most complete in South America. It has seven treatment rooms, a native therapy zone, hydrotherapy zone, heated pools, steam rooms, sauna, yoga studio and nutritional advice

Qoya Spa Casa Cartagena Hotel

This is a modern spa located in the Casa Cartagena hotel, with a view of Cusco’s San Blas neighborhood. It has a 350 square meter area, with a system of oxygen enrichment. It has a hydro-massage pool, a pebble path and Turkish baths.

As you can see, we should all celebrate Cusco for being something out of the ordinary, something magical and majestic – a small paradise on earth which everybody should visit at least once in their life time. It is like taking part of a fairy tale, and a visit is a memory for the rest of everybody’s lives.

Online Travel Guide to Peru
This site has been put together by travel professionals living and working in Peru, and is full of destination ideas, things to do, places to stay and restaurant reviews! Take some time to read through our Peru Travel Guide for other ideas, and contact us should you have any questions.

 

Luxury Peru tours

El Monasterio Hotel

Luxury travel in Peru is booming, and the steady increase of visitors every year is leading to a demand for luxury travel, services and hotels. Incredibly, Peru boasts some of the finest hotels in South America, and has much to offer the discerning traveller.

In 1911 when Hiram Bingham revealed a lost Incan citadel to the world, Peru emerged as a new destination for travel in South America. The citadel was called Machu Picchu, and for many years the largely untouched Inca site lay dormant, lost to the Amazon Jungle until Hiram Bingham stumbled on the site with his expedition team. Over the next 100 years many other Inca sites were reclaimed from the Jungle including the citadel of Choquequirao and Winay Winya. In addition to these incredible sites, visitors to Peru can also enjoy the Inca sites of Pisac, Ollantaytambo and the Colonial City of Cusco – which is like a living museum of Inca architecture.

If you are thinking about a luxury Peru tour in the coming year and are considering taking advantage of some of Peru’s best hospitality, we have put together a list of some of the best highlights, and tops on things you need to know.

Peru offers a plethora of luxury Hotels, from traditional colonial hotels to chic contemporary styled boutique accommodations. The very best hotels are located close to the major tourist attractions like Machu Picchu, Cusco and the Sacred Valley. In Cusco we suggest you might want to consider the Monasterio Hotel, originally built in 1595 on the site of the palace of Inca Amaru Qhala. Another popular choice is the very private hotel of La Casona – an 11 suite hotel built around a traditional inner courtyard, and a popular choice for the rich and famous. Other hotels which stand out in Cusco include the well-priced Libertador Hotel and Casa Cartagena, an ultra-modern hotel set in a colonial mansion.

Luxury travel to Peru

Hiram Bingham Train to Machu Picchu

Of-course no trip to Peru is complete without a visit to Machu Picchu, and the very finest way to travel is on the Luxury Hiram Bingham Train. This luxury service operated by the Orient Express Group is one of South Americas finest train journeys. Styled like the 1920’s Pullman Trains of the past, with Royal Blue livery and comfortable seating is an experience not to forget. The service includes brunch on the outward journey, a 4-course dinner on the return trip, a fully stocked bar, plus lunch at the Sanctuary Lodge Hotel adjacent to Machu Picchu. It is important to note that the Hiram Bingham Service does not run on a Sunday.

Luxury tours to Peru

Sol y Luna

There is only a handful of luxury Machu Picchu Hotels, and the Sanctuary Lodge Hotel is the only hotel located at the citadel, with the rest of the hotels located on the floor of the Vilcabamba Valley in the small town of Aguas Calientes. The Sanctuary Lodge hotel is situated just a few yards from the entrance to Machu Picchu (and interestingly has no views of the citadel), and is perfect for visitors who want to have the best access to the site. An excellent choice for early risers, those who want to visit Machu Picchu before the crowds arrive or budding photographers who want that perfect shot first thing in the morning. An alternative hotel worth considering is the beautiful Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel by the extremely successful luxury Peruvian hotel chain – Inkaterra. Set in 11 acres of cloud forest and featuring the largest private collection of Orchids in South America, on-site nature walks and their own tea and coffee plantations, the Puebo hotel is more than just a place to sleep.

Luxury tours to Machu Picchu

Luxury Hotel Machu Picchu

If you are hoping to spend a little time relaxing away from the hustle and bustle of the city then a few nights in the Sacred Valley (just 1 hour from Cusco) is a popular choice. The Sacred Valley is a tranquil region of Peru and offers several high level luxury hideaways, and is situated a few hundred feet lower than Cusco, great for acclimatizing to the altitude. There are several excellent choices, but one of the most prominent hotels is the Sol y Luna hotel located just outside of Urubamba. Set in large, beautiful and well maintained gardens, the Sol y Luna hotel offers guests a selection of charming individual Casitas and Luxury Suites. The hotel also features Wayra, a ranch located towards the lower end of the complex, and offers guests exceptionally high quality guided horse-back riding tours through the Sacred Valley. The Sol y Luna also operates half and full day quad biking tours from Wayra, exploring further afield to the mystical and rarely visited Inca ruins of Moray.

If you are considering a luxury Peru tour sometime in the future we hope that these few hints will help you get the most out of your trip. Peru is an amazing country with incredible history, ancient Inca ruins and many other fantastic attractions. Make sure that Peru is on your list of must visit countries – it truly is a luxury destination not to be missed.

Luxury Peru Tours - Machu Picchu

UNESCO World Heritage Site - Machu Picchu

Hiking in Peru

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The Inca Trail has to be one the most popular adventure activities in South America, and every year draws literally thousands of hikers to the lofty heights of the Andes in the region of Cusco. Inca Trails were the vast network of paths that the Inca’s created to interlink major cities along the coastline and mountains of South America. The Inca’s built some 20,000 km’s of stone trails which stretched as far north as Quito (Ecuador) and south to Santiago (Chile). The famous Inca Trail hike starts about 2 hours from the Andean City of Cusco – at Kilometer 82, and winds through the mountain terrain, traversing several mountain passes, before finally arriving at Machu Picchu.

To help you prepare for the Inca Trail, we have compiled a list of 10 important things to know about the Inca Trail, to help you get the most out of your tour to Peru.

Permit System

Not all people are aware that the Inca Trail operates a permit system that limits the amount of hikers per day. The Direccion Regional de Cusco (DRC) is the governing body of the permit system and operate an online reservation system for permits. The maximum number of permits issued per day is 500, and must be purchased using the passport number of the person intending to hike. The  Inca Trail hike is a top attraction in Peru, and to avoid disappointment we advise planning your trip 3-4 months (or more) in advance. For more information on available permits you can visit the DRC website www.machupicchu.gob.pe for more information (website in Spanish).

Tour Operators

Hiking in Peru, the Inca Trail

Inca Trail Camp Site

Tour operators that wish to operate the Inca Trail must be fully approved by the DRC, before they are allowed to hike with tourists. Tour operators must meet strict guidelines about how they operate, the equipment they use and the medical equipment they carry. By Peruvian law, only Peruvian companies may operate the Inca Trail, so if you book with a tour operator that is based outside of Peru, you are sure to know that they are sub-contracting the services to a Peruvian company. Quality between tour operators vary, so take some time to do some research about the company you choose to trek with, before you hand over your money.

Acclimatization before you trek

It is important that you plan at least 2 days minimum of acclimatization time before you start any trek in the highlands of Peru. The high altitude affects tourists differently from a mild headache to more severe symptoms of vomiting and dizziness. Trekking at high altitude is strenuous on the body, and trekkers that have not taken the time to acclimatize could experience altitude sickness, which could prevent them from starting or completing the trek. The Inca Trail is in a remote location, and hikers that become ill usually return on foot to the trail head, where they can return by train to Cusco. Helicopters are available for airlifts, but cost on average about $4,000 per hour. Cusco is a wonderful city, and there are many attractions to visit in and around the city – therefore taking 2 – 3 days prior to the start of your trek can enhance your trip and keep you healthy. Take some time to review our Guide to Cusco for information on attractions, hotels, restaurants and general travel advice.

Camping Equipment

Camping equipment is an important part of the trek as you will be spending 3 nights under the stars en-route to Machu Picchu. The majority of the equipment that you will use will be provided by your chosen tour operator, but be sure to check what they include in the price and what they don’t. Tents, plastic floor sheets, are usually provided, whilst roll mats and sleeping bags are usually option extras that you will need to pay for. All other general camping equipment used for cooking and dinning will be provided.

Peru Tours and Travel
For professional Inca Trail Tours, led by fully qualified guides and using only original North Face camping equipment, contact us today. Totally Latin America are dedicated to providing high quality tours and travel to Peru. If you are thinking about hiking the Inca Trail or are planning a tour to Peru contact one of our professional travel advisors today for more information.

What will you eat?

Hiking in Peru

Inca Trail to Machu Pichu

Some of the food best you may eat whilst in Peru could be in the Inca Trail. Most good tour operators will have a specially trained chef that will cook for the group. Meals are usually high protein, high carb foods to help you with energy levels on the trek. Breakfast usually consist of breads / toast, fruit, pop-corn, juices and cereals. Lunches and dinners can include meat, pastas, chicken, potatoes, vegetables, pop-corn, hot drinks, salads etc. and are usually presented in the dinning tent on a long table, where you can enjoy the meal with your trekking group and guides. High energy snacks are also typically provided at the start of the day.

Extra Porters

Although it might seem brave or adventurous to carry your on back-pack, trekkers it is actually not much fun – even for the most seasoned trekkers. The high altitude, fairly strenuous climbs and descents on stone pathways can make it tough on your back, knees and ankles. Your Inca Trail tour operator will probably offer the services of extra porters to carry your equipment, charging between $30 – $40 for the trek. Porters are usually local farmers from the many mountain communities close to the Inca Trail, and are well accustomed to working at these altitudes.

Inca Trail Packing List

If you are carrying your own equipment, remember to pack light, only taking the minimum amount of things necessary to complete the hike. We recommend keeping your back-pack below 12 KG’s (25 lbs.).

  • 1 pair or more of good quality hiking socks per day
  • Light weight hiking shoes to sports shoes (mainly stone paths, comfort is most important)
  • Water proof clothing for the rainy season (Sept – April)
  • Warm clothing for the evenings, hat gloves, scarf, thick socks
  • 1 pair of flip flops for walking around the camp site
  • 2 spring loaded walking sticks – good for up and down hill
  • Flash light
  • 1 roll of toilet paper
  • Wet wipes / 1 hotel sized bar of soap
  • Small bottle of alcoholic gel
  • 1 small towel
  • Plenty of t-shirts
  • Pack several small bottle of water, which are easier to carry and offer better weight distribution in your backpack
  • Sun hat / Sun Screen
  • 40-50% Deet based insect repellent
  • Camera + spare batteries
  • Passport – for entrance to trail
  • Small amount of cash ($15 – 20 for porter / guide tips plus a little more for other purchases in Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes).
Peru Tours and Travel
Totally Latin America is a professional travel agent based in Cusco, Peru – and is dedicated to providing high quality tours and travel to Peru. If you are thinking about hiking the Inca Trail or are planning a tour to Peru contact one of our professional travel advisors today for more information.
Winay Winya Inca Trail

Winay Winya, the beautiful Ruin on the Inca Trail

When is the best time to hike the Inca Trail?

There are two seasons in Peru which affect the climate on the Inca Trail. May – September is the dry season, and the weather on the Inca Trail is sunny and dry with average temperatures of 17 – 20 Deg C (65 – 70 Deg F). Night time during this period is very cold and although the temperature usually doesn’t fall to freezing point is can get very close. During the rest of the year October – April, it is considered the wet season. This time of the year is okay to hike, but be prepared with waterproof clothing and coverings for your backpack. The Inca Trail is closed for maintenance during the month of February, which also happens to be the month of heaviest rainfall.

Footwear for the Inca Trail.

The Inca Trail is largely made up of ancient stone pathways built by the Incas, and therefore for most of the trek you won’t be wading through muddy tracks and soft ground. Be warned that the stones can often be slippery and uneven, so appropriate footwear is important. Full hiking boots are probably not essential, and certainly during the dry season a pair of comfortable training shoes (sneakers) would be sufficient. It is probably not recommended to hike in sandals (even special hiking sandals) as the Inca Trail has small biting sand flies which are happy to munch on passing tourists. If you are hiking during the wet season, be sure to use waterproof shoes.

Hike with 2 walking sticks

The UNESCO World Heritate Site of Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu, Peru

Although you might think it is not necessary, hiking with 2 walking sticks will really help. There is rarely a moment when you are hiking on the flat (perhaps for part of the first day), and for most part the trail is either rising of descending. Using 2 walking poles will help relieve pressure from your back and leg joints, whilst given you a little more stability as your maneuver along the uneven trail; this is especially useful if you are carrying a heavy backpack. Professional sprung loaded walking sticks are best, but a standard wooden pole (which you will find locals selling at the start of the trail) are also okay. Your Inca Trail operator will also have walking poles available for rent ($3 per day approx.).

The Inca Trail is simply one of the greatest treks in South America, and it is recommended to anyone who is up for the challenge!

Should you require additional hotel recommendations, and want to include the booking of the Inca Trail with a professional tour operator, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

A tour of Lima’s revamped old quarter – founded 475 years ago – reveals how the Peruvian capital has managed to preserve its beauty.

Lima’s historic old quarter is arguably the loveliest vestige of colonial times in all of Latin America. For 300 years, during the Spanish Viceroyalty, Lima was the most prized gem of the entire continent. At the beginning of the 20th century, the city’s French influenced streets served as a runway where members of the social elite displayed their style and grace. Lima later experienced an economic downturn, but in recent years, it has begun to reinvent itself, thanks to the city’s cultural, archeological, artistic and culinary riches. And so Lima aims the reclaim its standing as one of the most historic and cosmopolitan cities in the western world.

Here are seven essential recommendations for anyone travelling to Lima, brought to you by the most informative online Peru Guide.

Palacio de Gobierno / Government Palace

Named after the conquistador Francisco Pizarro, who orders its construction in 1536, Casa de Pizarro is once again open to the public. Given the historic importance of the seat of Peruvian government, this building clearly had to be more than just a headquarters of the administration in Power. So following a 20-year effort, the building was opened to the public for guided tours that allow visitors to appreciate at its mysteries and secrets.

Open Monday to Friday 9am – 2 pm
www.presidencia.gob.pe/palacio-para-todos

Parque de la Muralla

As the center of operations for the Viceroyalty, Lima was highly coveted by enemies of the Spanish crown. In 1684, a protective 33-foot high wall was built around the city. Nearly years later, what remained of those defensive walls was barely standing on an unused plot of land. In 2005, part of the wall that once protected the Palacio del Virrey (which todays is the Palacio de Gobierno) was restored and opened to the public.

Bar-Restaurant Cordano

Known as the Presidents café, this restaurant isn on the list of the not-to-miss spots in South America compiled by (that other famous guide) the Lonely Planet. More than 100 years old, Cordano one of the oldest restaurants in Lima’s old quarter and is considered a historic monument by the National Institute of Culture. Located across the street from one of the Palacio de Gobierno’s side doors, this restaurant serves local specialties like tacu-tacu, a traditional Lima dish of beans and rice fried together in a crispy pancake – at Cordano, it’s called “Acorazado de bolsillo.”

Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI)

The Palacio de la Exposition – the building that houses the Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI) – is one  the  most beautiful examples of the city’s eclectic architecture. In fact, in 1973 the building was declared a monument of the nation’s historical and cultural heritage by the National Institute of Culture.  Nonetheless, this glorious structure was abandoned amid the chaos of Lima’s traffic for many years. Thanks to restoration efforts in 2008, however the MALI’s imposing French figure today looms large in the city’s downtown area. The MALI features the best cultural offerings in all of Lima, including photo exhibits, ancient and contempory art, theater and presentations.

www.mali.pe

Plaza San Martin

In the 1980’s , this square reflected the complexities of life in Lima. But nothing truly ends, it is only transformed: today, Plaza San Martin – five blocks from the Palacio de Gobierno, on the street Jiron de la Union – is a thriving nexus of tradition and experimentation. By day, the cultural offerings in the general area include tournaments of Peruvian Stepping Horses, folk-art fairs circus, theatre and excellent restaurants. At night tradition gets an infusion of youth on Jiron Quilca, where Peruvian music, rock, salsa and electronica converge.

Barrio Chino / China Town

Just like New York and San Francisco, Lima has it’s own China Town, located 6 blocks east of the Palacio de Gobierno, complete with a Chinese archway entrance, lions and brilliant red everywhere you look. The architecture, sounds and aromas transport visitors 12,500 miles away without crossing the pacific. The typical décor of this exotic area includes glazed pigs hanging in the windowns, small stands offering the trappings of eastern religions and shops galore. Take the opportunity to dine in a chifa, the name given to Chinese restaurants in Peru.

www.bario-chino.com

Curcuito Magico del Agua / Magic Water Circuit

Located in the former Parque de la Reserva, 13 fountains set the Guiness World Record for the world’s largest fountain complex in a public park.  With jets of water that surpass 260 feet, the nighttime spectacle is perfect blend of music, color, light and images.

www.circuitomagicodelagua.com.pe

Map of Southern Peru

Ica - Southern Peru

Rescue workers in Peru are trying to free nine miners trapped underground by a rockfall at a depth of more than 200m (650ft).

The miners are receiving oxygen and drinks through a hose.

But rescuers have so far been unable to get heavy machinery to the Cabeza de Negro copper and gold mine in the south of Peru.

They have communicated with the miners, who said the had no serious injuries but were feeling desperate.

The mine is located north of the city of Ica, more than 300km (185 miles) south of the Peruvian capital, Lima.

“They’re alive, but we can’t use diggers because of the difficulty of getting them up the steep hill,” rescue worker Erin Gomez told the AFP news agency.

Mr Gomez said he hoped they would be able to free the men later on Saturday or on Sunday, but he warned that the rescue could be delayed if there were any further rockfalls.

Cabeza de Negro is one of Peru’s many wildcat mines, where miners take high risks to extract copper and other metals.

Last year, more than 50 people died in accidents in Peru’s silver, gold and copper mines.

As reported by BBC News 08 April, 2012

Birds of the Amazon

Nowhere in the world is there such a plethora of birdlife as in the Amazon rainforest. The Manu Biosphere Reserve alone is home to over 1,000 different species. Their names are often as exotic as their appearance: from golden-headed quetzals to yellow-rumped caciques to pale-winged trumpeters, they represent a birdwatcher’s dream. Who wouldn’t think their trip worthwhile if they spotted a paradise tanager, known as the siete colores because of its seven colored plumage? Or a jabirú stork, one of the largest flying birds in the Americas, up to one of the largest flying birds in the Americas, up to 1.4 meters (4 ft) in length?

Various Feathers Flock Together

Many species fly in mixed flocks: insectivorous birds, such as woodcreepers and ant-birds, will flock together, sometimes as many as 100 of them traveling in a great cloud. This makes individuals difficult to distinguish on first sighting, but they tend to stick to the same feeding areas so, if you identify their territory, you will have a great opportunity to spot a variety of species together. The same applies to the mixed flocks of fruit eaters, which include tanagers, fruit crows and parrots. Once you identify a food source you have an excellent chance of seeing a large number of birds. Not that rainforest birds are always easy for the uninflected to spot, which is why an experienced guide is invaluable, and one usually accompanies visitors on organized tours. The oxbow lakes of the Amazon are the habitat of herons, hoatzins, egrets and wattled jacanas, species not difficult to spot as the forage on the shores. Raptors flying high above the canopy, can present more of a problem, but the harpy eagle, among other majestic creatures, can be spotted from vantage points at clearings or on river-banks.

Hoatzins
These can manage only short, clumsy flights. They form mating groups, and share the rearing of their offspring. The young have clawed wing bends, to help them clamber about in trees.

Black-necked Red Cotinga
A solitary and elusive bird, the cotinga belongs to the same family as the cock-of-the-rock and the fruit crow. It feeds on fruit and insects, which it finds in the treetops.

Refrecent Tiger Heron 
These elegant, reddish-colored birds are frequently spotted in and around the lakes and streams of Manu Biosphere Reserve. They can also be spotted flying over clearings.

Yellow Ridged Toucan
Noisy, gregarious birds that usually fly in pairs. Their bills maybe one-third of their total length.

Wire Tailed-Manakin
This manakin has a long filament in the tail which the male uses to strike his partner during the courtship ritual.

Wattled Jacana
Foraging at the edge of an oxbow lake in Manu Biosphere Reserve, the wattled jacana is unusual in that the female takes more than one mate, lays several clutches eggs and leaves the males to rear the young.

Stamping Out the Bird Trade

One of the most spectacular sights in the Peruvian Amazon is that of macaws gathered at the huge salt licks in the Tambopata National Reserve. But some people still regard exotic birds as interesting pets, and the macaws and parrots that inhabit the same pan of the rainforest can be trapped, exported and sold on the international market. Although the Convention on Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), signed in Washington in 1972, protects the species that are most under threat, it is not strictly adhered to, and doesn’t affect birds whose numbers are high. The influx of tourists has helped to create an alternative source of revenue, making the trade less economically attractive to local trappers.

Online Travel Guide to Peru
This site has been put together by travel professionals living and working in Peru, and is full of destination ideas, things to do, places to stay and restaurant reviews! Take some time to read through our Peru Travel Guide for other ideas, and contact us should you have any questions.

Huaca Prieta (3500 – 2300 BC)

Huaca Prieta weaving, Northern Peru

Huaca Prieta Weaving

One of the earliest groups in Peru to be studied were the Huaca Prieta people, who lived at the site of that name around 3500 BC to 2300 BC. These hunter and gatherers began simple agriculture, growing cotton and varieties of bean and pepper, but corn, now a national staple, was unheard of. Finds of simple nets and hooks indicate that they primarily ate seafood. Homes were single-room shacks half buried in the ground, and most of what is known about these folks has been deduced from their middens, or garbage piles. It seems that they were a Stone Age people who didn’t use jewelry, but had developed netting and weaving. At their most artistic, they decorated dried gourds with simple carvings; similarly decorated gourds are produced today as a Peruvian handicraft. Hot stones may have been dropped into these gourds to cook food.

Chavin (850 BC)

Chavin de Huánter, Northern Peru

Chavin de Huánter

About 850 BC, a major new cultural influence that of the Chavin, began to leave its mark on the area. This period was named after the Andean site of Chavin de Huantar, where a feline worshipping cult had it´s main center. The Chavin influence swept over the northern mountains and the northern and central coasts of Peru. At its most simple, the Chavin influence consisted of a highly stylized art form based especially on jaguar motifs. This was the first major culture in Peru, as well as one of the most artistically developed. The various areas and groups it encompassed were typified by the rapid development of ceramic ware and a common art form. In the Trujillo area, the Chavin influence was represented by the Cupisnique culture. Examples of Cupisnique pottery can be seen in the museums of Lima and Trujillo, though there are no especially noteworthy ruins from the Cupisnique culture open to visitors.

In the Trujillo area archaeologists have identified other geographically smaller and less -important cultures that followed the Cupisnique period. These include the Salinar, Vicus and Gallinazo.

Online Travel Guide to Peru
Thinking about planning a tour to Peru, and maybe you want to include tours to Trujillo and northern Peru? Talk to one of our professional travel advisers about planning your a trip. Contact us today, or see our selection of other Peru tours available.

Moche (200 BC – 850 AD)

Colorful Moche Ear Decorations

Moche Ear Decorations

With the decline of the Cupisnique period came the beginnings of the fascinating Moche period, which is defined by the Moche cultures impressive archaeological sites and some of the most outstanding pottery to be seen in Peru’s museums.

The Moche culture is named after the river that flows into the ocean just south of Trujillo. The word ‘Mochica’ has been used interchangeably with Moche and refers so a dialect spoken in the Trujillo area at the time of the Spanish conquest, though not necessarily spoken by the Moche people. Moche is now the preferred usage.

The Moche culture evolved from around 200 BC so AD 850. The Moche didn’t conquer the Cupisnique; rather, there was a slow transition characterized by a number of developments. Ceramics, textiles and metalwork improved greatly under the Moche, architectural skills allowed the construction of huge pyramids and other structures, and there was enough leisure time for art and a highly organized religion.

As with the Nazca culture, which developed on the south coast at about the same time, the Moche period is especially known for its ceramics, which are considered the most artistically sensitive and technically developed of any found in Peru. The thousands of Moche post preserved in museums are realistically decorated with figures and scenes that give us a very descriptive look at life during the Moche period. As there was no written language, most of what we know about the Moche comes from this wealth of pottery. Pots were modeled in to life like representations of people, crops, wild animals, marine life and monumental architecture. Other pots were panted with scenes of both ceremonial activities and everyday objects. From these pots, archaeologists have deduced that Moche society was very class conscious. The most important people, especially the priests and warriors, were members of the urban classes and lived closest lo the large ceremonial pyramids and other temples. They were surrounded by a middle class of artisans and then, in descending order, farmers and fishers, servants, prisoners and beggars.

Moche ceramics usually depicted priests and warriors being carried in litters wearing particularly fine jewelry or clothing. Further evidence of the authority of priests and warriors is given by pots showing scenes of punishments, including the mutilation and death of those who dared to disobey. Other facets of Moche life illustrated on the pots include surgical procedures, such as amputation and the seting of broken limbs. Sex is realistically shown; one room in Museo Larco in Lima; is entirely devoted to erotic pots (mainly Moche) depicting most sexual practices, some rather imaginative. Museo Cassinelli in Trujillo also has a fine collection. Clothing, musical instruments, tools and jewelry are all frequent subjects for ceramics.

The ceramics alto show us that the Moche had well-developed weaving techniques. But rare rainstorms, which occurred every few decades, destroyed most of their textiles. Their metalwork, on the other hand, has survived. The Moche used gold, silver and copper mainly for ornaments, but some heavy copper implements have also been found.

Two main Moche sites have survived, side by side, a few kilometers south of Trujillo and are easily visited. They are the Huacas del Sol y de la Luna.

The Moche period declined around AD 700, and the next few centuries are somewhat confusing. The Wari culture, based in the Ayacucho area of she central Peruvian Andes, began to expand, and it´s influence was felt as far north as the Chicama valley.

Chan Chan from the Chimu Culture in Northern Peru

Chan Chan

Chimu (850 – 1470 AD)

The next important period in the Trujillo area, the Chimu, lasted from about AD 850 to 1470. The Chimu built a huge capital at Chan Chan, just north of Trujillo. The Chimu was a highly organized society – it must have been so have built and supported a city such as Chan Chan. It´s art work was less exciting than that of the Moche, tending more to functional mass production than artistic achievement. Gone, for the most part, was the technique of panting pots. Instead, they were fired by a simpler method than that used by the Moche, producing the typical black ware seen in many Chimu pottery collections. Despise it´s poorer quality, this pottery still shows us life in the Chimu kingdom. But, while the quality of the ceramics declined, metallurgy developed, and various alloys (including bronze) were worked. The Chimu were also exceptionally fine goldsmiths.

It is an urban society that the Chimu are best remembered. Their huge capital contained about 10,000 dwellings of varying quality and importance. Buildings were decorated with friezes, the designs molded in mud walls, and important areas were layered with precious metals. There were storage bins for food and other products from across the empire, which stretched along she coast from Chancay to the Gulf of Guayaquil (southern Ecuador). There were huge walk-in wells, canals, workshops and temples. The royal dead were buried in mounds with a wealth of offerings.

The Chimu were conquered by the Incas in 1471, but the city was not looted until the arrival of the Spanish. Heavy rainfall has severely damaged the mud moldings, though a few survived, and others have been restored.

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Gold Mining Puerto Maldonado

Gold Panning

Three people have died and more than 30 have been injured in clashes between miners and police in Peru.

The miners are protesting against tougher penalties for illegal mining.

Local officials said police were far outnumbered by the protesters, who are trying to take control of the airport at the city of Puerto Maldonado.

The miners say the new rules will put them out of work, but the government says the sanctions will encourage miners to get the necessary permits.

An estimated 50,000 miners do not have a licence to operate.

Poisoned rivers

The government says large areas of jungle have been destroyed by illegal mining and large portions of the area’s waterways show high levels of mercury, used in the mining operations.

Officials say they want the miners to obtain the correct permits and to abide by environmental rules, but the protesters accuse the government of wanting to hand over mining concessions only to large multinational companies.

The latest protests erupted after talks between the government and the miners broke down on Tuesday.

Regional officials said more than 10,000 miners tried to seize government buildings, markets and the airport in Puerto Maldonado.

Regional President Luis Aguirre described the situation as “untenable”. “You can hear gunshots throughout the entire city,” he said.

Police have asked for reinforcements as 700 officers were outnumbered by more than 10,000 protesters.

Informal miners also held protests in two other regions, in Piura in Peru’s northwest and in Puno in the southern highlands bordering Bolivia.

Peru is one of the world’s major gold producers and high prices have sparked a boom in recent years.

The government has urged the miners to return to the negotiating table for more talks scheduled for Friday, but it is not clear so far if the miners will attend.

As reported by BBC News, 14 March, 2012

Insiders Point of View on This Story

This story is a bit shocking, especially as 3 people were reported dead from violent protest. It is also a blow to Peruvian tourism that has seen year on year increase for the last 10 years. Fortunately, incidents of this nature don’t happen very often, and it is important to know why these protests are happening, before re-considering any travel plans that you have or might be making.

The region of Madre de Dios is located in the far south-eastern corner of Peru, and is entirely covered by dense Amazon Jungle. It is one of the biggest regions within Peru, but is also one of the least populated with approximately 100,000 residents. Tourism, Cotton, coffee, Brazil nuts, and palm oils are the main source of income, with many people also making a living sifting gold from the mineral rich rivers. The reality is however – is that the region is relatively poor, and the people struggle to earn an income.

The new government laws that plan to ban gold mining will affect the lives of many thousands of people in the region, and this has angered locals. Protests in Peru are quite common, and anger against government proposals to new laws and changes of policy anger are frequent.

Illegal mining has had a major impact on conservation in the region, and on-going mining is causing pollution to the rivers and wildlife alike. The people and the government need to find a solution to the problem, but I fear that this is a solution that is a long time coming, if at all.

If you are travelling to Peru in the next few months, or have a Peru tour planned, it is important to realise that this will not affect the majority of tourists, and this is only localized protesting in the Jungle town of Puerto Maldonado. Cusco, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, Nazca, Lima are not affected and travellers to these destinations need not worry. If you are travelling to either Tambopata National park or Manu Bio-sphere reserve, then it is probably best to check with your travel agent the latest news on this situation before you travel.

Paul Jones, Editor
Cusco, Peru

Hacienda Concepcion, by Inkaterra in Tambopata National Reserve

Amazon Jungle Lodge

Covering 60% of Peru, the Amazon jungle features on many visitors’ itineraries — not surprising, considering the variety of landscape and wildlife that can be captured on camera. Lush vegetation, dense jungle and waterways are home to 10 million species, including jaguar, snakes, crocodiles and thousands of types of birds and fish.

There are two main gateways into the heart of the Amazon: Iquitos in the north and Puerto Maldonado in the south, which is accessible from Cusco by air or road. From these two cities, visitors can explore the remote Pacaya-Samiria in the north, Peru’s largest natural reserve; or visit the southern Amazon’s Manu Biosphere Reserve, home to macaws and parrots, and the Tambopata National Reserve — the most bio-diverse area of the Peruvian Amazon.

When it comes to exploring the Amazon, options include guided boat tours, overnight stays in eco lodges ranging from basic to luxury or camping for close encounters with wildlife. For clients wanting to cruise the Amazon in style, there is the 12-suite MV Aqua. But it’s not just the Amazon where travellers can be at one with nature.

MV Aqua - Aqua Expeditions Luxury Cruises, Amazon River Peru

Amazon River Cruise

Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake — sharing its perimeters with Bolivia — is home to birds, fish, flamingos, Andean geese and seagulls, as well as aquatic plants. The best way to experience Lake Titicaca is to stay overnight on Amantani Island, on the Peruvian side of the lake, with local residents offering home-stays. Peru is home to more than 1,800 species of birds, so it’s ideal for a spot of bird watching. Real enthusiasts should follow the Central Birding Route, journeying from the coastal region of Lima through the Andes and into the Amazon, with opportunities to spot endemic species along the way. The rim of Colca Canyon is the prime place to spot giant condors swooping overhead.

Excerpt from ASTA Magazine, July 2009
www.asta.org

Inti Raymi Festival in Cusco

Inti Raymi

With the first settlers having arrived in Peru 20,000 years ago, there’s plenty of culture and heritage to keep lovers of history happy. Most people associate Peru with the Inca Empire and Machu Picchu. The Incas constructed the citadel out of heavy stone blocks and it remained undiscovered for centuries, becoming known as the Lost City of the Incas. Visitors will need several hours to explore the site, with it´s maze of stone temples and palaces.

Just 10 minutes from Cusco is Sacsayhuaman fortress, another Inca construction, while an hour away, the Sacred VaIIeyis dotted with towns and villages and Inca remains. But it’s not just the Inca Empire that

Nazca Lines, in the Pampa desert, near Ica

Nazca Lines

helped to shape Peru, with archeological sites dating back to pre-Incan times. South of Lima, the mysterious Nazca Lines are a series of designs etched across a rocky desert region left by a civilization living in 300BC. Visitors can fly across the area in a small aircraft to gain a bird’s eye view of the curious figures and shapes.

Whatever time of year your client chooses to visit Peru, they’re almost always guaranteed to find the locals celebrating some kind of festival. One of the most colorful is the Inti Raymi (the Festival of the Sun), in Cusco each June. Dating from the Inca Empire, it honors Wiracocha, god of the sun, with parties and an Inca ritual performance at Sacsayhuaman fortress.

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