Editor

I am a British ex-pat (originally from Bristol) who now resides in Cusco, Peru with his Peruvian wife and young daughter. I have worked in the Peruvian travel industry for several years, and have a wealth of experience about Peru and South America. I have been writing about Peru and South America for several years, and have a particular interest in the history of the Incas and The Spanish Conquistadores. I hope this website is informative and useful to its readers and that the information provided helps you make that decision to travel to Peru, and discover one of South America's hidden gems!

Cusco and Surrounding Areas, Readers Review

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Jan 162012

Plaza de Armas Cusco, Peru

Cusco is a beautiful city, and if you arrive by plane your first glimpse of it will be the high mountains surrounding the wide valley floor with Cusco nestled in between. My trip from the airport to the centre of Cusco was a little scary, as the taxi drivers like to drive fast, and a two lane street can quite easily become a 5 lane street when the traffic builds up. But don’t let this put you off. If you weren’t up for an experience, you wouldn’t have come to Peru! The whole place is bustling constantly, and there lots of people walking around and just as much traffic. Coming from a place where everyone drives cars, to see so many people walking around made Cusco appear intense, but after a few days here, I got over that and began to look past the hustle bustle, and notice the beautiful plazas, colonial buildings and wide elegant main streets and narrow cobbled side streets.

The Plaza de Armas is the main square with colonial buildings which is used as a great meeting place, crammed with shops, cafes and restaurants, including an popular American bar called Norton’s and another popular Irish pub called Paddy’s which serves fantastic food, to impress any homesick traveller. Both bars are in the same corner of the plaza and easy to find

Rumi Punku Hotel Good 3 star

I stayed in the San Blas area of the town, starting only two blocks behind the Plaza de Armas. My hotel of choice was the Rumi Punku, which catered to my every need, even ones I didn’t know I had until I needed it, for example, luggage storage, laundry, free internet, 24 hour access, heaters, hot showers & cosy beds. San Blas, which extends upwards towards Saqsayhuman is the artistic quarter of Cusco. Here you will find many more galleries, cafes, musicians and Shaman. It’s a chilled out area of Cusco.

On my first day in Cusco, and after a lovely cup of coca tea, we decided to take a stroll up to the Christo Blanco (a large white statue of Christ overlooking the city). Whilst we took it slowly, it’s probably not recommended to do such a trek without spending a few days taking it easy and acclimatising to the altitude first! Likewise, many drinks and hygiene products, (ie deodorant etc) are bottled at sea level, and like you, are not use to the change in pressure, beware that you contents might jump out of the bottle when you take off the lid!

San Blas Cobbled Street

Having explored the wider city more, the food markets can be an eye opening experience, the artisan markets are filled with beautiful presents to take home, and definitely don’t be afraid to explore the alley ways which are disguised as narrow shops entrances, as you will likely end up in the back of the stop which opens out on to courtyards surrounded by more shops or steps leading up to a cafe.

Around the touristy areas in Cusco, mainly surrounding Plaza de Armas, you will no doubt be approached by a local trying to sell you something. This might be a child wanting to shine your shoes, or an art student wanting to sell some art, or a farmer’s wife trying to make some extra money by selling sweets, cigarettes and woollen hats. If you choose you buy something, I’m sure you will get a good deal, but if you don’t want to, politely say, “No gracias” and walk on.

Many of the buildings in the city are built on the foundations of Incan buildings, and often you will see the fine block-work rising up a meter or so. There are also several museums dedicated to the history of Peru and a it is worth while making time to visit Korikancha on the Avenue del Sol.

Inca Wall - Cusco

Cusco is also a good central location to visit other Incan citadels nearby. A few I visited and recommend are the beautiful ruins of Pisac (which boast spectacular views and a daily artisan market in the town). Also take time to visit Saqsayhuman, an Inca site high above Cusco and the mysterious moon temple near Q’enqo. The wonderfully designed and preserved irrigation channels of the agricultural terraces of Tipon are worth exploring. My personal favourite are the three circular agricultural terraces at Moray, where you are able to climb down in to the centre to experience for yourself the change in temperature from the highest to the lowest terraces and discover the ingenious of the Incas.

Cusco is also the setting off point to Machu Picchu, whether you choose to go by train or walk the Inca trail.

Popular Tourist Attractions in Peru
Our travel professionals have written about many other exciting tourist attractions in Peru. Take some time to read through our comprehensive Guide to Peru for information on other places to visit.

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Readers Review

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Jan 162012

Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

I had booked my place on the Inca Trail well in advance and had chosen to go with SAS travel. On arrival in Cusco I visited their office to confirm that I would like a porter to carry my bag for me. The porters can carry a maximum of 9kg of your equipment, including the sleeping bag and ground mat which I also hired. A few days before the departure date, the trek operator held an evening briefing, so we could meet our guides and the other people in our group. The guides ran through the complete 4 day Inca Trailwith our group in detail and left us with no illusions about how difficult and challenging the trail would be.

We had an early start on day one of the Inca trail. The bus took us from a meeting place in Cusco to Ollantaytambo where we had a comfort break before travelling to km68 where we had another break for breakfast. The food was delicious, and as explained to us, the meals throughout the trek are calculated carefully to ensure that each person had the correct amount of carbohydrates and sugars they needed at the right time of the day to help them complete the trail.

At km68 we set off on the Inca Trail, passing immediately though the first check point of the trail, where we were able to get our passports stamped. The first section of the trail was flat and not too taxing, and we were warned to be aware of the porters walking by and try to keep to the left, so the porters could pass us easily.

Inka Trail Porters

These porters are amazing. They carried all the food, (including trays of eggs), water, tents, baggage, tables, stools, cooking equipment and crockery and mostly in sandals. They don’t really walk either, it’s more of a trot, which I was astounding to see, especially when I had been struggling just to walk due to the altitude. Our porters rushed ahead to set up lunch for us. They erect a food tent with tables and stools inside and had lunch almost ready by the time we arrived. After lunch we set off whilst the porters pack up. They soon overtook us again to reach the camp site ahead of us. They set up all the tents and began to prepare dinner just as we arrived.

The campsite was located on some old Inca terraces with a toilet block next to the river. A local came along with some beer for sale, which some of the group welcomed with gusto. The guides entertained us with games and stories after dinner before we headed off to our tents for some sleep.

The Andes are extremely cold at night, and despite wearing a hat, gloves and scarf to bed, I was still cold. We were woken in our tents by our guides with a warm cup of coca tea in the morning and after a quick wet wipe wash we went to the food tent for hot porridge, and pancakes for breakfast.

Inca Trail - Trail Head

Day two was the most challenging, as we climbed over the infamous “Dead Womans Pass”, a 4200m pass. The guides were fantastic. One stayed at the front of the group and the other at the back. I am not the fittest of people so I was far behind the front runners, but my guide offered help and encouragement, even offering to carry my day pack for me, which was full of water! I have to admit day two almost broke me! Eventually I made it and on the other side of the pass, after a speedy decent, lunch was a welcome break. The afternoon saw us climb two more passes, which seemed so easy in comparison to the mornings walking.

Close to our next campsite, there were some small Inca ruins to explore, but I chose to carry on to the camp ahead of my walking companions and porters from other tour groups helped me find my way to my tent. That evening the sky was clear and the stars were so dramatically vivid and colourful. It was so magical.

With day three came some early morning mist which burnt off quickly with the sun. The hiking was generally a decent towards our last camp. I remember this section of the trail being the most picturesque, as the path levelled out a little (although as our guide constantly reminded us – this is the Andes, there is no “flat”!) and wound round the edge of the cliffs, overlooking a vast valley. The scale of the view was only realised when a helicopter appeared below us and looked tiny, but also we could tell it was high above the valley floor. This section of the trail was more forested than the previous sections, and so magical and remote, it wouldn’t have surprised me if I saw a few hobbits running by.

Winay Wayna

The last evenings camp site boasted hot showers (for the price of a few soles), a food hall and small bar where all the tour groups ate and relaxed before the early start the next morning. Our group also had a presentation with our porters and we were introduced and showed our appreciation to them all. A short walk from this camp site is the wonderful Incan citadel of Wiñay Wayna. It’s truly stunning and despite the number of groups at this camp site, we were the only ones to visit this site.

A very early rise the following morning allowed us to get to the check point before it opened. Once it had opened at 5.30am, all the groups were keen to be the first to get to the Sun Gate, and weather permitting would get their first glance of Machu Picchu. The path here was narrow and didn’t allow for much overtaking, so there was some pressure to walk quickly until there was space enough to pass or be passed. My lasting memory of this two hour trek is the set of steps leading up to the Sun Gate. I felt like I needed the skills of Spiderman to get up them! Steep and uneven doesn’t describe them, but it was wonderful to reach the top for that magnificent view.

Camping on the Inca Trail

After a short track down to Machu Picchu we passed through the final check point and had our passports stamped again. After a quick snack, our guides took us on a tour of the whole site, explaining the beliefs, hierarchy and expectations of Inca’s in their everyday lives. The location of Machu Picchu is outstanding, and the views from this mountains are phenomenal. You can’t even imagine how the Inca’s managed such a feat of engineering. Some of the braver members of our group took up the challenge to climb Huayna Picchu (there is a limit to the number of people who are able to climb this famous mountain which is the back drop to the classic Machu Picchu postcard.) Other parts of the site include the moon temple and the extremely precarious looking Inca bridge.

Around lunchtime we took a shuttle bus from the front of the luxurious Sanctuary Lodge Hotel adjacent to the citadel, down the zig zag road to the town of Aguas Caliantes below. After a buffet lunch in a local restaurant we had several hours to kill before we caught the train back to Ollantaytambo. Some of the group visited the hot springs from which Aguas Calientes gets its name, and the rest of us investigated the market place.

Machu Picchu Early in the Morning

The train journey back from Aguas Calientes was in the dark, but entertainment was provided by the on board staff. I can’t explain this experience; you’ll have to take the trip to find out! At Ollantaytambo, we exchanged the train for a bus to take us back to Cusco town centre.

That evening we celebrated completing the Inca trail by meeting in Paddys Irish bar on Plaza de Armas for a few well deserved local beers!

Arequipa, Monastery de Santa Catalina and Mama Juanita, Readers Review

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Jan 122012

Arequipa - The White City

I only had one day in Arequipa, The White city, and decided to visit some Museums. Arequipa’s main square, Plaza de Armas, has beautiful white colonial buildings, is bustling with life and colour, and feels much brighter and fresher than the Plaza de Armas in Cusco. The taxi journey to the first museum was interesting. The taxi drivers in Arequipa, are just as crazy as elsewhere in Peru and the journey is made more challenging by the cobbles throughout the city!

Santa Catalina Monastery

The first museum I wanted to visit was the museum of Juanita. Juanita was the Incan princess who’s frozen body was found in 1995 after an ice cap melted on a mountain over 6000m and discovered by rock climbers, and thought to be a sacrifice to the gods. The museum housed many stunningly beautiful Incan artefacts which included the colourful clothing Juanita had worn. Eventually we came to the room where Juanita’stemperature controlled cabinet is. Her appearance is a little shocking, and simply adds to the mystery and intrigue of her story and sets your imagination racing. It’s a fascinating museum.

Mama Juanita Remains

The second place I visited was recommended to me, and I’m so pleased I had the opportunity to visit. It’s the Monastery de Santa Catalina. I only had a limited time here, and whilst the personally guided tour usually takes an hour (which is free, but you are expected to tip), my guide agreed to take me on a tour for 30 minutes (although I was keen to tip her for the full hour!!). She showed me all the highlights of the monastery, and gave me a wonderful insight in to the lives that the nuns who lived here had to endure. The monastery itself is a beautiful, peaceful place with a labyrinth of cobbled streets inside an enclosed wall. A definite must when visiting Arequipa.

Hotel Costa del Sol Ramada Jarvis, Lima Airport Peru, Readers Review

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Jan 122012

Costa Del Sol Ramada Jarvis Lima Airport

Costa del Sol Ramada Jarvis Aiport Hotel, Lima, Peru

I have stayed at the Costa del Sol Ramada Jarvis hotel twice now, and as an independent female traveller travelling alone, it is of great comfort to know that it is directly opposite the airport arrivals exit. It was suggested that I could have hung out in the airport over night before my connecting flight to Cusco, but to be honest I was a bit worried about the safety aspect and after a 12 hour flight from Europe; I really wanted a hot shower and a decent bed to sleep in. After running the gauntlet of taxi drivers calling to me “lady – taxi – lady” and wanting to drive me in to Lima, I made it to the elegant reception of the Lima Airport hotel. All the staff were very efficient and helpful and the porters were cheerful and chatty. Whilst my face got redder & redder with the humidity of Lima, the porter was kind enough to set the thermometer in the room to a more manageable level before leaving me to it.

The room was standard, clean, tidy and very pleasant. The view from the window was of the airport car park! But I wasn’t there for the view. Room service was great despite the lateness of the hour. Only “snack” items were available as opposed to the full menu after a certain hour, but it was good grub and just what I needed to fill my tummy.

Bedroom

I didn’t stay long enough to enjoy the delights of the rest of the hotel, the bar, the restaurant or gym, but I slept well, in a comfortable sound proof room. It’s slightly more expensive that I’d normally pay for a night in a hotel, but for the reassurance of safety, comfort and proximity to Lima airport was worth every penny. I will by staying there again in the future.

Click the link for our Peru guide review and more information on The Costa del Sol Ramada Jarvis Airport Hotel, located at Lima Airport.

Peru Guide – theonlyperuguide.com
This site has been put together by travel professionals living and working in Peru, and is full of destination ideas, things to do, useful travel information, places to stay and restaurant reviews! Take some time to read through our Peru guide for other ideas, and contact us should you have any questions or suggestions.

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, Tambopata National Park Peru, Readers Review

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Jan 112012

Reserva Amazonica - Inkaterra

Having decided I wasn’t ready to deal with all the bugs the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest had to offer, I booked my 4 day 3 night stay tour with the more expensive Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, where I was reassured by my Peru travel agent I’d have a fantastic experience.

Upon arrival at Puerto Maldonado Airport (after a flight from Lima, via Cusco) I was met by my guide from Inkaterra. After a short bus ride with other travellers in the Inkaterra bus, we arrived at the butterfly farm. I didn’t understand the relevance of its name until my return, when I had some time to explore the butterfly enclosure behind the reception area. We were given a complimentary cold drink whilst we filled out some paperwork, and after storing our luggage that we didn’t want to take with us in their secure lockup, we took another bus through the bustling town of Puerto Maldonado to the port.

Our guide entertained us with facts about the town, the Madre de Dios River and the reserve whilst waiting for our boat to arrive to take us the hour trip down the river to the reserve. Luckily, the reserve is not within a malaria area at the time of writing, but other mosquitos are rife, and it’s wise to take lots of bug spray, especially when on the river. Upon arrival at the reserve, the staff all came to the riverbank to welcome us. It was a nice touch.

Boat Launch - Reserva Amazonica

We were directed to the dining area for our orientation talk, and we were put into groups and allocated a guide. As I was travelling alone, I was joined up with an American couple in a very small group. We were then given time to chill out in our cabinas before our first guided experience that afternoon.

The cabinas are elegant, simple, and cleverly designed so you do not overlook other cabinas. Made from polished wood and with thatched roofs, the cabinas stand on stilts. The front third is enclosed by fine mesh and therefore open to the elements. This made it very atmospheric, and a great space to relax in the hammocks or lounge chairs. The back two thirds are enclosed by walls and is the bedroom with a 4-poster bed (from which hangs a mosquito net). The shower is off to one side and the toilet to the other.

As the whole site is a research centre and aims to be environmentally friendly, the electricity is only on at certain times of the day. Luckily they provide a flashlight. Oil lamps are lit for you, one on your porch and the other in your lounge area. Oil lamps are also lit along the paths joining the cabinas to the restaurant, so you can find your way around in the evenings.

Anyway, back to our guided experiences! The whole group needs to agree on which experiences to take, so we opted to take a tour of the local jungle. I expected to see animals galore, but as pointed out to me, the jungle is very large, and most of the animals hangout in the protected areas where people are prohibited.

Our guide was very knowledgeable about the flora and insect life which was second to none, and so fascinating. That evening we took a dusk boat trip to see caiman which was a little disappointing as the most we saw was the reflection of the eyes of a baby caiman.

The trip to the Jungle farm was also interesting, so see how chocolate grows, and all those other fruit and veg you buy at the supermarket, and never considered if it grew on a tree or plant!

Cabinas - Inkaterra

The experience to see the giant otters was phenomenal. After an hours hike through the rainforest where we spotted a pair of macaw, bats, caterpillars and various other insects, we arrived at the lake and jumped in the canoe. Our two guides paddled us around the stunningly beautiful lake pointing out a variety of birds including three types of heron, bats, caiman, and we even got out the boat to chase after some howler monkeys we could hear! Eventually the giant otters came out to play and whilst we weren’t allowed to get too close the experience was unforgettable. We were extremely lucky to see the otters as not every boat on the lake that day saw them.

We also went fishing for piranha, which was fun (a little stick and fishing wire) and I’m pleased to say the fish were smart enough eat the bait without being caught!

Our final experience was to see a native family. I am in two minds as to whether I enjoyed this experience. I am happy that tourism benefits families like these in extreme poverty and it was nice to meet the family, play games with them but it felt like an intrusion into their life and that they were just going through the motions with us. The American couple I was with also felt slightly uncomfortable with this experience, but I guess we need to remember that it is a real family and not a Disney ride.

The food at the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica was spectacular, the menu was varied and nothing was too much trouble for the chef and waiters. Whilst I was happy to eat alone, the waiters made a point of chatting to me, so I was never alone for long!

Inkaterra Tree Top Canopy

One evening I decided to have a spa treatment, and after deliberating over the array of treatments on offer, I opted for a cold stone treatment, (the stones had been cooled in the Madre de Dios River). I showered before my treatment and waited to be collected and taken to the treatment room. The room was right on the riverbank. And unexpectedly the room was open to the river, with only mesh to make up the wall. It was amazing to see the sunset over the river, whilst having the treatment, but what I didn’t account for was being bitten to shreds whilst half naked! Ouch!

If I hadn’t have enjoyed all of the above enough, the friendly macaw who flew around between the cabinas each morning shouting “hola” to wake us up or the brazil nuts (meant for the visitors) which were fed to the local rodent, or the butterflies which massed on the salty riverbanks in their various distinctive bright colours have definitely made this trip to the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica memorable for life.

Written by: Karen | Bristol – United Kingdon

Peru Guide – theonlyperuguide.com
This site has been put together by travel professionals living and working in Peru, and is full of destination ideas, things to do, places to stay and restaurant reviews! Take some time to read through our Peru guide for other ideas, and contact us should you have any questions.

Cusco Tourist Attractions – Korikancha Full Review

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Jan 092012

Korikancha - Cusco

When the Spanish Conquistadores invaded in Peru over 500 years ago, Peru changed for ever. Much of the grandeur and splendour of the mighty Inca Empire was destroyed in a matter of months. Inca sites like Machu Picchu and Choquequirao were lost for centuries to the dense Amazon Jungle, but others like Ollantaytambo and Cusco were reduced to rubble as the city fell into the hands of the Spanish army’s. Korikancha in Cusco was no exception, and as one of the Incasmost spiritual and key buildings it was doomed to be destroyed.

Built by the finest Inca masons Templo del Sol (Temple of the Sun) at Korikancha was the most sumptuous temple in all of the Inca Empire, and more than 4000 priests and their servants lived there. Korikancha meaning ‘Court Yard of Gold’ in Quecha (the original Inca language), was dedicated to the worship of the Sun God Inti. The temple was constructed from the finest highly polished stone reserved only for the most important Inca buildings. It was adorned with life-size gold figures, solid gold altars and walls decorated with gold banding. Legend even told of floors and walls completely covered with gold. Korikancha also had a large solid gold sun disc that reflected the sun’s rays, bathing the temple in light. A life size replica of the disc can be seen in Lima at the Museum of the Nation.

Spanish chronicles depicted the opulence of Korkanca as – fabulous beyond belief, but interestingly in South America gold was abundant, and

Convent of Santo Domingo

unlike the Spanish the Incas never thought of gold as a valuable; simply a beautiful material perfect for decoration. Ironically, much of the gold at Korikancha was used by the Incas to pay a ransom the Spanish demanded for the life of the kidnapped Inca leader Atahualpa.

When Cusco finally fell to the Spanish, Korikancha was destroyed, and over the next century the Catholic Convent of Santo Domingo was slowly built in its place. The Spanish made use of the superior Inca engineering, incorporating the intricate and interlocking stones as foundations for the new convent. Over the following years earthquakes severely damaged the convent, yet the well-constructed Inca foundations withstood the test of time, and only in recent years have the stone started to move.

Inti Sun Disc

Located just a 10 minute walk away from Cusco’s main square – Plaza de Armas, Korikancha is a must see for all visitors to Cusco, and is usually included within the standard city tour. Entrance to Korikancha is not included as part of the Boleto Turistico General (General Cusco Tourist Ticket), and must be purchased separately.

Location: Plazoleta Santo Domingo, Cusco, Peru
Phone: (084) 222-071
Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 8:30am – 5:30pm; Sun 2 – 5pm

Machu Picchu and Galapagos Tour Combined

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Dec 302011

Galapagos Islands

Have you ever thought about combining the best of two South American destinations and creating a trip of a life time? Well many people do, and by far the most popular choice is combining Peru and Ecuador to create a Machu Picchu and Galapagos Tour.

There are many things to consider when planning a Machu Picchu Galapagos Tour, so we have put together a top ten list of things to research to help things run a little more smoothly. It is probably best to leave the final arrangements to a professional travel agency, but being armed with some insider’s knowledge will help you ask the right questions and get the best tour for your money.

1) How many days have you got? - This is really important to know, as you will probably need a minimum of 10 days, ideally 12 or more. Don´t try to fit too much in a short period or you won’t do any destination justice.

2) What time is best to travel to the Galapagos and Machu Picchu? - In the Galapagos you have high and low seasons, meaning that tariffs for cruises will change depending on when you travel. Check with your travel agent or cruise operator to see when the tariffs change; by playing around with your travel dates you may save yourself some money. Also in the Galapagos, the wildlife and seas change depending on the season. Check out our month by month guide to the Galapagos for further information. At Machu Picchu it is best to avoid November through until April as this is the rainy season.

3) Galapagos or Machu Picchu first? - This is really a personal choice, but it is probably worth getting a quote on the flights between Peru and Ecuador, as flights can be expensive depending on the route you take. Budget $250 – $600 for a return / one way flight.

4) Big Boat or Small Boat in the Galapagos? - Again this is probably a personal choice and there are pros and cons to both sizes. Bigger cruise ships typically offer more communal spaces, more services plus more spacious cabins and types. Smaller boats can offer a more intimate experience with a more personalized service. The decision is really yours. Some also say that catamaran boats offer more stability in bumpy waters, so this might also be something that you might want to consider.

Machu Picchu

5) Additional hidden costs for Galapagos Cruises! - There are some costs which are not always obvious when travelling to the Galapagos. If you are booking your trip through a travel agent, then you might want to ask what is included and what is not.

$90 upwards: fuel surcharges. Several years ago, when fuel prices rose suddenly, cruise companies introduced a fuel surcharge. Although prices have fallen since, the surcharge remains in place. Prices vary depending on the cruise company and cruise duration.

$100 Galapagos Park Tax: this is a local TAX which most travel agents will not include within the price of tour. This tax is paid in person at either Quito or Guayaquil airport. It is $100 per person.

$10 INGALA Tourist Control Card: any person visiting the Galapagos must pay this additional fee. Price per person. This may or may not be included in the price of a tour.

Ask about what meals and drinks are included.

Confirm if snorkeling equipment is included within the price or not. Most cruise companies will rent equipment to you and it can be quite expensive.

6) Flights for my Galapagos Machu Picchu Tour – You will need to include several carefully planned flights in your tour itinerary for the trip to run smoothly. Remember, try to avoid too many flights in a row, and plan your tour so that you have a couple of buffer days to absorb any unforeseen delays that you might encounter. LAN and TACA Airlines are the two principle carriers between Peru and Ecuador. Flights from Ecuador to the Galapagos are best purchased with your Galapagos Cruise or with your travel agent. Galapagos airlines have special agreements and tariffs with most cruise companies. Flights to the Galapagos only operate from Guayaquil and Quito in Ecuador (you must fly to Ecuador mainland first). All Galapagos flights follow the same route: Quito – Guayaquil – Galapagos – Guayaquil – Quito.

7) Hotels in Machu Picchu – Machu Picchu is located 4 hours by train from Cusco the nearest major city, and therefore you will probably want to stay one night. The citadel of Machu Picchu is perched high above the Urubamba Valley, and therefore all but one of Machu Picchu´s hotels are located in a small village called Aguas Calientes 30 minutes below the citadel. Aguas Calientes is a rather unique village, and all hotels there are extremely over priced for what they offer. To avoid disappointment it is best to be prepared to pay 2-3 times more for a hotel here than you would in Cusco. The Sanctuary lodge hotel is the only hotel located at the citadel of Machu Picchu, and although very good it is very expensive. Expect to pay from $700 per night. See our Peru guide section on hotels in Machu Picchu.

8) New Rules for Entrance to Machu Picchu – In July 2011, the governing body of Culture in Cusco (DRC) changed the entrance rules for Machu Picchu. Now entrance to the citadel is limited to 2500 people per day, tickets for hiking Huayna Picchu must be purchased in advance, and are limited to 400 people per day, split into two entrance times 7-8am and 10-11am. Talk to your Peru travel agent about what is included in your package.

9) Land based Galapagos – Not many people know that there are also many hotels in the Galapagos, and that land based tours are possible. Often visitors to the Galapagos prefer the facilities and comfort of a modern hotel to that of a cruise ship. Daily excursions to other islands nearby can easily be arranged through your hotel or a local travel agent. Land based tours are also a superb option for scuba divers as most diving companies operate from Land based premises.

10) How much does a Galapagos Machu Picchu Tour Cost? – This is a really big question! There really are many options to choose from, including hotel level, class of cruise, duration of cruise, additional tours in Peru and Ecuador, flight tariffs etc….expect to pay anywhere from $4,000 – $8,000 per person, including all internal flights but not your international flights from home.

Galapagos Guide, Month by Month

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Dec 302011

Galapagos Islands

Are you planning a Machu Picchu and Galapagos Tour? Then we have a month by month guide to the Galapagos to help you pick the perfect travel dates. Remember that for Machu Picchu the rainy season is November through until mid April.

January

Land birds start nesting, generally after the first rain
On Hood (Española) Island adult marine iguanas become brightly colored (green & red + black)
The green sea turtles arrive to beaches in GPS for egg laying period
Land iguanas begin reproductive cycles on Isabela Island
Both, water and air temperatures rise and stay warm until June
Ideal time for snorkeling

February

On Floreana Island greater flamingos start nesting
Bahama pintail ducks (Black-tailed pintail) start their breeding season
Nazca (masked) boobies on Hood are at the end of their nesting season
Marine iguanas nest on Santa Cruz Island
The highest water temperature reaches 25C (77F). This temperature remains constant until April
Very few penguins are sighted at Bartolome Island (most have followed the cool waters back to the west or near upwelling areas)
Nesting season of the Galapagos dove reaches its peak

March

Sporadic tropical rains, intense sun and hot climate. Air temperature can reach up to 30C (86F). Humidity is high.
Marine iguanas nest on Fernandina
March 21st, the beginning of the summer equinox signals the arriva of the waved albatross to Española.
Even the western islands have warm waters where snorkeling is excellent. Punta Vicente Roca (Isabela) can be an amazing site. Penguins still active in the water, next to tropical fish! (How bizarre!)
Some shores, especially those facing the north side, can receive deep surge (ola de fondo) coming from the northern currents. Wet landings at places like Puerto Egas, Gardner Bay, Bartolome can sometimes be a challenge.
Snorkelers can remain long periods of time in the water.

April

Massive arrival of waved albatrosses to Española. Amazing courtship starts.
End of hatching season of the giant tortoises
Eggs of green sea turtles begin to hatch
Eggs of land iguanas hatch on Isabela
While the rains have ended, the islands continue to be quite green
Good visibility in the water for snorkelers

May

North Seymour’s blue-footed boobies begin their courtship
Sea turtles are still hatching on Gardner Bay, Punta Cormorant, and Puerto Egas
Most of marine iguanas’ eggs hatch from nests on Santa Cruz
Palo santo trees begin to shed their foliage
Waved albatross on Española start laying their eggs
Ban-rumped storm petrels begin their first nesting period

June

Giant tortoises on Santa Cruz Island migrate from the highlands to the lowlands in search of suitable nesting places
Beginning of the nesting season of giant tortoises
South east trade winds return. Currents become a bit stronger. Seas pick up in surge and wave action.
Many red pouches by males of Magnificent Frigatebirds on North Seymour.
Southern migrants have started their journey towards the north. Galapagos is a rest stop for such birds. Some species of cetaceans also follow this pattern of migration.
Some groups of Humpback whales that migrate up to equatorial latitudes along the coast of Ecuador, can reach the Galapagos too.

July

Sea bird communities are very active (breeding), especially the Blue footed boobies on Española. Flightless cormorants perform beautiful courtship rituals and nesting activities on Fernandina.
If you walk along the shores of Puerto Egas (Santiago Island) you could find American oystercatchers nesting.
Lava lizards initiate mating rituals until November
Cetaceans (whales & dolphins) are more likely to be observed, specially off the western coast of Isabela
Great month to see the four stages of nesting in Blue footed boobies: eggs, chicks, juveniles and subadults.

August

Galapagos hawks court on Española and Santiago
Nazca (masked) boobies and Swallow-tailed gulls nest on Genovesa Island
Migrant shore birds start to arrive, and stay on the islands until March
Giant tortoises return to the highlands of Santa Cruz
Oceans are quite choppy, currents at the strongest levels, surge can be expected along the shores that face west or south
Pupping season (births) of sea lions has started. Western and central islands are common places for such sightings.

September

The air temperature reaches its lowest levels (19C-66F)
Galapagos Penguins show remarkable activity on Bartolome. Since May swimmers and snorkelers can be delighted at Bartolome with penguins active at the surface or torpedo-like while underwater.
Sea lions are very active. Females have reached estrus stage, and so harem-gathering males are constantly barking and fighting. Shore fighting is heavy. Western and central islands are the most active ones in terms of sea lions’ activities.
Most species of sea birds remain quite active at their nesting sites.

October

Lava herons start nesting until March
The Galapagos Fur Sea lions begin their mating period
Blue footed boobies raise chicks all over Española and Punta Vicente Roca (Isabela) .
Giant tortoises are still laying eggs
Days are not always sunny. Garúa can be expected in most locations, except the western islands where most days have a misty start but after few hours of daylight it burns off.
Sunrises in the west can be quite beautiful after the garúa covers only certain locations of the western volcanoes. Summits are clear, but low-lying fog covers the shoreline.

November

Pupping of sea lions continue.
Sea lions are sexually active on the eastern part of the archipelago.
Breeding season for the brown noddies
Some species of jellyfish can be seen around the islands. The genus Physalia is commonly seen floating around Gardner and Tortuga Islets. Some can also be seen stranded at the shores of the Flour Beach at Floreana.
Band-rumped storm petrels begin their second nesting period
Seas are calm. South east trade winds have decreased strength. Water temperatures are slowly rising.
Generally great weather due to transition between one season and the next one
Good visibility for snorkelers
Sea lion pups (specially at Champion Islet) play aqua-aerobics next to snorkelers. Most pups here are curious enough to nibble at fins of snorkelers. The average age of most pups is 3-4 months.

December

Hatching of giant tortoise’s eggs begins and lasts until April
Green sea turtles display their mating behavior
The rainy season begins, all of the plants of the dry zone produce leaves. Galapagos becomes “green”
The first young waved albatrosses fledge
Great weather

Etnika’s Shamanic Center — Ayahuasca Healing in Cusco

Your Reviews No Responses »

Dec 302011

Ayahuasca Experience Cusco

If you are in Cusco and are looking for the genuine ayahuasca experience, consider this place. I went here, and although it was a bit more money than the other places around (250 dollars versus 100 ollars) the difference was clear. I was in a safe supported environment with few people that enabled me to dig deep inside myself and receive strong visions and messages from ayahuasca. Compare this to the other place nearby, Ayahuasca Wasi, where 30 people were crammed into a room vomiting in the dark with no one to help you and my visions were just static with some hexagonal patterns sometimes.

If you want a truly healing ayahuasca experience in Cusco with real Shipibo medicine men and women, go to Etnikas. If you want a useless trip, there are plenty of other places to choose.

Written by: Angie | Portland – USA

Editors Comments:

We would just like to point out that taking ayahuasca is a personal choice. Exploring any type of legal or illegal drug whilst in Peru is potentially very dangerous. Although this post was a genuine entry by a visitor, we cannot help but feel that this post may have been written by the Owner of Etnikas a rather charismatic young local Peruvian. The I.P. address of the senders email was also from Cusco. Take this post with a pinch of salt! Also, the post didn’t meet our competition guidelines (min 200 words), therefore this post will not be entered into the the competition.

The Inca Empire – The Rise and Fall

Peru Articles No Responses »

Dec 282011

Inca Empire

The Inca Empire which once dominated South America is now only a distant memory. Once a civilization of great power and influence, the Incas came to a sudden demise in the 16^th century after small army of Spanish Conquistadores successfully invaded the continent. The Incas never developed written communication, and only chronicles written by the Spanish conquistadores offer an insight into the lives of this mighty empire.

It is thought that the Inca Empire started around the 13^th century in the highlands of the Andes. The Empire grew and stretched a vast area along the west coast of South America; from Quito in the north to Santiago de Chile in the South. Quechua was the official language of the Inca´s, although other languages such as Aymara, Puquina, Muchik and many more were commonly spoken.

The Incas referred to their empire as Tawantinsuyu, a word in Quechua meaning 4 provinces or 4 regions, with the City of Cusco at heart of the empire. Contrary to popular belief, Cusco (not the mystical citadel of Machu Picchu) was the most important city within the empire, and was the political, administration and military centre of the Incas. Nowadays, Cusco´s busy streets offer a permanent reminder of the past, with impressive remains dotted in and around the city.

Huayna Capac:

The term ´Inca´meaning ruler or lord (in Quechua) was a name reserved only for the ruling family of the empire. After the Spanish invasion, the term ´Inca´ became more generic, referring to all of the people within the empire including natives, not just the ruling family.

The Incas were expert masons crafting locally mined rock into precisely cut and shaped stones, which could fit together without the use of mortar. The highest quality stone work was reserved for temples and religious buildings, where the masons took time polish the stones to a smooth finish denoting the importance of these buildings. Furthermore the Incas developed a complex road system spanning some 20,000 km´s that linked the coast to the highlands, and the north to the south. These roads known as Inca Trails were constructed mainly of stone and included lodgings, temples and military posts en-route.

Although nowadays there are many Inca ruins throughout South America, the very best examples are situated in the region of Cusco, in the South of Peru. One of the most famous ruins – Machu Picchu was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983, and is one of South America´s most visited tourist attractions. However, the region boasts many other lesser known ruins like the fortress at Ollantaytambo, the mountain top ruins at Pisac, the agricultural terraces of Moray and Tipon, the recently discovered citadel of Choquequirao, Wiñay Wayna on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu to name a few.

Inca Masonry

The rule of the Incas came to an abrupt end in the 16^th century when an army of just 200 Spanish conquistadores lead by Francisco Pizarro invaded the continent. Although the Spanish laid claim to the fall of the Incas, it was widely considered that the empire was already in disarray, and not far from collapse. In 1532 when Francisco Pizarro was given Spanish approval to conquer the Incan Empire, he returned from Spain to find the country in civil war. The two sons of Inca Huayna Capac: Huáscar and Atahualpahad engaged in fierce disputes over newly conquered territories and power. In addition to civil war, European disease brought to the continent by the Spanish had a widespread and devastating effect

Francisco Pizarro

on the native fighting forces. With superior tactics, advanced weaponry and the alliance of native forces, the Inca Empire fellquickly to the Spanish.

Nowadays the Incan Empire is committed to history, and only ancient myth and awe-inspiring ruins remain for us to unravel the mystery of this epic civilization.

To discover more about the Inca Empire and Inca ruins in Peru take some time to read through our comprehensive guide to Peru. Alternatively if you are considering a tour to Peru or a Machu Picchu tour please drop us a line for more information and advice.

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